Tag: How I Ended Up in Brazil

  • Why I’m an Expat in Brazil Part III: Leaving the Friend Zone

    Why I’m an Expat in Brazil Part III: Leaving the Friend Zone

    Dancing crosses culture and brings people together. It did for my husband and me.
    Dancing crosses culture and brings people together. It did for my husband and me.

    My husband and I never actually dated.  Not officially.  He never asked me to dinner.  I never invited him to a movie.  We didn’t sit across from each other in a dimly-lit, over-cooled restaurant asking about family or hometowns between sips of wine.  When one of the parties can pull out a two inch file on the other there is no “getting to know you” period.

    “So, I’m from Rio de Janeiro originally…”

    “Yes, I read that in your program application.  I also saw that you got your law degree from a university in Bahia and recently completed your master’s in law at the State University of Rio de Janeiro.  Changing the subject, your blood pressure is fantastic!  Do you have any cardio tips?”

    For his part, he’d listened to a running stream of personal revelations from me as I attempted to make each of the Fellows (him in particular) feel at home in DC.  I thought the best way to do this was to talk about my parents’ divorce and bring travel photo albums to lunch.  He’d met my closest friends within two weeks of meeting me because I’d recruited them to be student hosts for the Fellows, and he met my parents when I brought them along to karaoke with the Fellows at a bar in Adams Morgan.

    He may not have had a full medical history for me, but he knew exactly who I was within a month of meeting me: a 22 year-old who excitedly brings her parents out to a bar to show off her new work colleagues.

    I hid nothing.  I revealed all of me including friends, family, and cat.  The only reason I did something as insane as show the HD version of myself from the start is because it was inconceivable that we would end up in a relationship.  And I mean inconceivable literally.  I did not imagine, envision, or hypothesize any scenario in which we were more than friends.  His different nationality and culture had nothing to do it with it.  He was…is sixteen years older than I am.  His professional career at that point included naval officer and auditor with Brazil’s IRS.  My professional title at the time was “Graduate Assistant”.  We were at such different stages in our lives that all I had my sights set on was an incredibly impressive letter of recommendation from him at the end of year.

    So when my friend confidently told me over dinner one Saturday night “He’s totally going to stick his tongue down your throat.”  I replied “Wha…he…I…uh…we…nooooo, he is not.”  Because I was both incredulous at the idea and painfully uncomfortable talking about physical relationships.  It was a cool evening in early October, and my friend and I were having basin sized salads before I headed out clubbing with some of the Fellows.  The Fellows from Zimbabwe and Cameroon were desperate to go out dancing, so I’d agreed to pretend I could dance and go with them.  The Brazilian said he’d come too.  The plan was for me to meet him at the metro stop near our apartments and head to Dupont Circle together.

    “So you’re going to the club together,” my friend concluded.  I changed the subject.

    We were headed to Cafe Citron, a club I had visited once before, and thought (wrongly) I could get to without directions.  After lapping the circle, asking for directions, and finding the other Fellows at the club, we hit the dance floor.  This was the part I had been dreading.  Besides soccer playing, the only other skill I associated with Brazil was dancing.  Samba. The Girl from Ipanema.  Carnaval.  Bossa Nova.  I imagined a country full of people who celebrated soccer victories by literally dancing, extremely well, in the streets.  I could handle the “Electric Slide”, the “Chicken Dance”, or a montage from Greece, but as we weren’t at a suburban high school homecoming, I didn’t expect to shine very brightly on the dance floor.

    Fortunately, neither does he.  The Brazilian doesn’t dance.

    Oh, he dances better than I do, but the music and the crowd that night kept things simple and close.  I could follow.  Not that we danced for long.

    I felt the tension from the first sway of my hips.  After having lunch together for weeks, I suddenly couldn’t look him in the eye.  I looked at his shoulder, just beyond his shoulder, his feet, his forearm, his hand, his chest.  Eventually, I was down to body parts that would have been far more awkward to stare at than his eyes. So I looked up.  We made eye contact.  And he made his move.

    His move was confident and calm and so wonderful.  It was the unhurried and sure kiss of a grown man.  Thank god, we got married because after a minute of kissing, I was spoiled forever for mid-twenty grad students.

    We left the club a couple.  Not dating.  Not open to other people.  We left together.

    Not that we told anyone.  Why cause a fuss if it wasn’t going to work out?  But by Christmas break we’d said I love you and it was time to tell my family I had fallen for a Brazilian, atheist, sixteen-years my elder, who was in the states for only another seven months.

    It went better than I expected.

     

  • Why I’m an Expat in Brazil Part II: Between Meeting & Dating

    Why I’m an Expat in Brazil Part II: Between Meeting & Dating

    Some very impressive Humphrey Fellows and me.
    Some very impressive Humphrey Fellows and me.

    It is a long way between meeting someone for the first time and marrying him.

    I saw my future husband for the second time early the next morning as I collected the entire group of Humphrey Fellows to escort them to their welcome meeting.  As an international studies major, I was in quite the fan-girl tizzy over the Humphrey Fellows, specifically the Fellow from Bhutan.  There are only about 700,000 Bhutanese in the world, and I was going to work with one!  I’d been bringing her up in conversation regularly for months in an effort to compete with my roommate’s stories from her internship on Capitol Hill.

    On that typically humid August morning, I found my Brazilian waiting in the dorm lobby next to the Fellow from Kenya.  We chatted as the others slowly trickled down.  There was a lot of hand shaking and slow pronouncing of names, my own name included.  “It’s pronounced like Lynn, except with a Br instead of an L.”  “No, it’s not a boy’s name.  That’s Bryan, with an A.”  “No, I don’t think my parents knew my name would be unpronounceable to, apparently, the entire world.”

    Orientation for an international exchange program is probably the most emotionally exhaustive thing a person can go through that doesn’t involve a birth, a death, or a space suit.  A person is expected to navigate a new place, new culture, possibly a new language, and new people, all while jet lagged and in some amount of digestive distress from new food.  It’s not a vacation.  There’s no sleeping in.  I met the Fellows in the lobby at 8:45am for a welcome meeting that started at 9 sharp, and from that moment on for the next two weeks, it was a race to get them registered for classes, bank accounts, cell phones, and long-term housing before fall semester began.

    Our Fellows had an added emotional blow as they went from being up and coming stars of their respective professions to nobody.

    Welcome to Washington DC!  It has the highest concentration of PhDs, law degrees and self-esteem per capita of any city in the world.  You are now officially unimpressive.  You will not have maids.  You will not have secretaries.  If you don’t know how to send an email or cook, well…we can teach you how to email.  Try not to starve.

    Undergrads who study abroad don’t have these problems.  They haven’t been on their own long enough to be embarrassed by dependency.  The Humphrey Fellows however ranged in age from 35 to 50.  They arrived for their year in Washington with impressive CVs and very fragile egos.  Working with them taught me how to explain what to do with used toilet paper without sounding condescending.

    Culture shock and a complete lack of family and friends explain why I, at 22 with the ink still drying on my diploma, was treated by the Fellows as an equal.  Nobody asked me to get their coffee.  They asked me to explain the online course registration.  They asked me to listen as they cried over how much they missed their kids.  They asked me to explain the endless variety of milk in grocery stores.  At that moment in their lives, they needed an insiders guide to Americans.  I was an American with a embarrassingly fortuitously empty social calendar and that huge fan-girl crush on them.  I became the group’s cultural wingman.

    I started hanging out with the Fellows on weekends.  We went to a coffee shop at Dupont Circle for s’mores.  We hit some bars in Adams Morgan and tried out an Ethiopian restaurant for lunch.  The group changed depending on who had a paper due or a bad case of culture shock, except for one member: the Brazilian.  In my memories he’s always there.  Always up for anything.  Usually available for lunch.  He’d rented a basement apartment close to where I lived, and we often ran into each other on the shuttle heading to and from campus.

    But I was so hung up on his resume and the sixteen year age difference, I never imagined he actually thought of me as a fellow adult.  I was sure the Brazilian, like the other Fellows, was being incredibly polite to someone helping him.  When he paid close attention as I took him through every picture from my semester in India, I must have subconsciously chalked it up to good manners because I would never, NEVER, have brought a photo album to lunch with someone I actually hoped to date.

    About a month after orientation, the Korean Fellow invited everyone to his apartment for dinner.  I clearly remember a few wonderful minutes in the kitchen as the Brazilian taught me how to make caipirinhas and I tried one.  I blamed my flushed cheeks on the cachaça.  Later a group of us took the subway home.  It was several blocks to the metro station, and the temperature had dropped changing my sandals from cute to extremely impractical.  My toes were slowly freezing and I probably would have lost a few, if the Brazilian hadn’t stopped, taken off his shoes, and handed me his socks.  He gave me the socks off his feet.

    And I still didn’t see the first kiss coming.  But that night deserves its own story.