Tag: Daily Living

  • Brazil: Children Allowed

    Brazil: Children Allowed

    Brazil! Where children are always welcome!
    Brazil! Where children are always welcome!

    As an American, I know that taking a child to any restaurant that doesn’t have it’s menu posted on a wall and ordering her juice while she plays on your phone will get you nasty looks at the least and reported to child services at worst.  The US can be a harsh culture in which to go about the day to day activities of parenting.  I didn’t know how harsh until I moved to Brazil, and my eyes were opened.

    Brazilians are gaga for children!

    Women and men, old and young, Brazilians adore kids.  Brazil makes the US seem like one giant lawn its crotchety citizens don’t want children stepping on.

    I first noticed this difference during a staff lunch at a chic restaurant in Rio. My boss brought her newborn to this very crowded restaurant at peak lunch hour.  Exactly one table was available and it was on the opposite of the restaurant.  There was a sea of people in expensive clothes and tables covered in glassware between us and that table.  When my boss indicated to the staff that we would be claiming that table, I cringed.  My stomach clenched at the idea of getting through this fancy crowd with a baby and stroller.

    That’s the appropriate response, right?  Obviously, a parent should feel ill at the thought of briefly disturbing other people’s lunches on the way to her own table.  Ha. How American of me.  Two waiters swooped in, all smiles, lifted the stroller up over their heads, and carried that baby like royalty across the entire dining room.  Not a single dirty look.

    Brazilians have this bizarre assumption that babies and children are a staple part of everyday life.  If there are people around, there will be young people and these young people will cry, complain, spill things, talk too loudly, and generally not behave like adults.  That’s life.  How else is it supposed to continue?

    People here also acknowledge kids.  They talk to them and include kids as if they were a part of society.  Strangers smile and say hello to my daughter on our walks to school.  Waiters greet her at restaurants.  When she cries in public, people stop and ask her what’s wrong. During a melt down, I’m not worried the stranger approaching is about to helpfully inform me my child is being disruptive or offer some  judgement in the form of unsolicited advice.  That stranger approaching doesn’t want to talk to me at all.  She’s going to console my daughter.

    At playgrounds, parents help each others’ kids on and off equipment.  They freely offer snacks they’ve brought to every child in earshot.  They let other kids run off with their own child’s toy confident it will be returned. Playgrounds in Brazil initially felt to me like loud, sandy communist communes.  It was a long time before I stopped apologizing profusely every time my daughter touched another kid’s toy and fearing the wrath of another parent because I offered her child gluten.

    If you do bring your baby to Brazil, be prepared. Brazilians love children, and Brazilians are touchy people.  I mean literally touchy.  They touch other people a lot.  A random passersby will want to touch, stroke, kiss, and even hold your baby.  One of my daughter’s nurses at the NICU here in Vitoria admitted this was a particular blind spot for Brazilians.  Knowledge of germ theory cannot curb their enthusiasm for babies. I dealt with it by reminding myself I’d rather have a request to hold my baby than a request to remove it from the premises.

    This habit of baby fawning is not limited to any age, gender, or class.  A trainer at my gym once brought his newborn into the weight room and a half dozen of the burliest men were reduced to cooing and clucking incoherently.  The school where I taught had preschool through high school, and everyday as the toddlers left the nap room, a crowd of teenagers gathered to squeal and exclaim over the adorably rumpled munchkins.

    And of course there are the old ladies.  Women over the age 70 must develop a sixth sense to detect babies.  I’d be sitting at the cafe, waving a rattle in my daughter’s face, and suddenly an 85 year old woman materialized out of thin air to stroke my daughter’s hair and to tell me my baby is cold.

    This is the one sin a parent cannot commit in Brazil.  You can leave the TV on 24 hours day.  You can feed your kid white rice and french fries at every lunch.  But do NOT let your baby get cold!!!  If there is a breeze and your baby is not covered with a blanket, every person will stop and tell you your baby is cold.  Every. Single. Person.  As someone who does not think 65 F requires gloves at any age, I heard it pretty much everyday of my child’s infancy.

    The love for and acceptance of children as part of daily life are two of the things I love best about Brazil, and for now, I’m perfectly content to raise my tantrum prone daughter here so as not to disturb my fellow Americans’ lattes.

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  • A First Test as a Writer

    A First Test as a Writer

    Keep the espresso coming!
    Keep the espresso coming!

    Recently, I decided to become a writer.  I’ve actually been diligently writing a novel for a couple years, but a few months ago I quit my job teaching and left myself with no other answer to the question “What do you do?” So now people actually know.

    Today I’m facing my first great test as a “writer”.

    The only piece of advice every writer in history seems to agree on is that a writer writes everyday. So I have been. But today, I’m alone in my apartment, lacking inspiration, with access to Netflix.  And it’s raining.

    I don’t think Shakespeare would have been so prolific if he’d been able to binge watch old seasons of Mad Men, Walking Dead, Downton Abbey, or almost any other show worth watching.  (Except West Wing! Seriously, Netflix, where the hell is West Wing?)  James Joyce would probably have been more straightforward if he’d been sucked into the Twitterverse daily while building his author’s platform.  Without a doubt Twain would have spent his afternoons watching the Daily Show.

    And the rain! What is it about grey skies and a light drizzle?  I’ve had three espressos, but it feels like I’ve been hit by a tranquilizer.  Why can’t sleep be this persistent after my daughter has gone to bed and my teeth are brushed?  I could just go take a nap. I’m completely alone.  No one would know, and my bed is so conveniently located in the same apartment where I keep my computer.

    No. I will remain doggedly at my desk. Why? Because I’m a writer.  More specifically, I’m a 32 year-old writer who hasn’t ever published anything, and that makes for some awkward conversations.  Oh, I’ve read lots of  inspirational, bucking-up articles to new writers. “If you’re writing, you’re a writer.”  Own it.  Be proud.  Hashtag amwriting.  Whatever. Let’s be honest.  Telling people you’re “working on a graphic novel” is only impressive if you’re sitting in a high school cafeteria and still legally required to be there. To the rest of the world, you’re just unemployed and probably going to have to explain what graphic novel is.

    My situation is complicated by the fact my husband is a genius with a PhD and two full-time jobs.  To be clear, my husband is incredibly supportive and respectful of new career.  It’s not his fault he’s so damn impressive.  Well, it kind of is his fault he’s a workaholic, but he’s not the one who makes things awkward for me.  It’s other people.  Non-writers.  I had this conversation the other day.

    Not-a-writer: “What have you been up to?”

    Me:  “Well, I’ve spent the last two days on this synopsis and I have FINALLY, FINALLY gotten it down to a single page.”

    Not-a-writer: “How about [the hubby]?”

    Me:  “Well, this year he’s applying to the Ministry of Education to get approval for his master’s program.  He’s been organizing all the lines of research, hiring professors, and specifically recruiting professors with PhDs to publish in those areas. He published three or four articles last year and has two or three pending approval.”

    Not-a-writer: “Well, if he needs someone to sum it all up in a single page, I know a gal he can call.” chuckle

    Ouch. And that is a mild dose of the unintended condescension given to the yet unpublished.

    So I won’t be napping because it’s Monday afternoon and I’m at work.  I’m writing.  And drinking more coffee.  And giving my emails a final check before getting back down…hey, there’s a new episode of Mad Men!

  • Talking Small in Brazil

    Talking Small in Brazil

    P1010054
    Small talk across cultures…

    Today my daughter and I went through our regular morning routine.  We had breakfast while watching cartoons, got dressed, and somewhere between the front door of our apartment and the front door of our building she decided she’s never going to school again.  As usual, I hobbled out the door to our building with a child hanging on one leg, two backpacks, a bag of objects starting with the letter of the week, and, for extra fun today, an umbrella.  While negotiating the concrete stairs, the window of the front desk slid open on cue and our building’s porteiro (door person/front desk receptionist) stuck her head out.

    This woman’s commitment to good manners is unwavering.  It doesn’t matter how loudly my daughter is crying or precarious my balance on the steps.  She will call out a greeting to us, comment on my daughter’s cuteness, and wait for a response.  As I call out a frazzled good morning in Portuguese between promises and pleas to my daughter in English, the porteiro in cheerful Portuguese tells my daughter not cry because school is fun! Truly, nothing is more helpful when negotiating a tantrum than to have a relative stranger shouting encouragement in another language.

    Such is the Brazilian commitment to small talk.

    Screaming toddlers in the rain won’t deter a morning chat.  I come back from the gym sweaty and stinky, and I still can’t avoid a discussion on the humidity with our porteiro, a maid, and two retirees.  Yes, it sure is hot.  Just look at my face in a puddle on the floor there.  I’d really love a shower.  After the heat and humidity, inflation is the next hottest topic to discuss with taxi drivers, elevator companions, and stylists.  Here in Vitoria, you can go ahead and blame all three on President Dilma.

    My first experience with the Brazilian determination to converse happened at the pool of my old building in Rio.  I had head phones wedged in my ears, a highlighter in hand, an open journal article on my lap, a stack of ten more to my left and a total of five words in Portuguese.  I non-verbally screamed, “Don’t talk to me,” but not loudly enough to deter the lifeguard.  There was no way to get rid of the guy short of saying “Stop talking,” but as I couldn’t use the imperative in Portuguese, I was stuck.

    I hate small talk and unfortunately for me, Brazilians are generally an extraordinarily friendly and happy people.  How exhausting.  Fortunately for me, the man I married is the most anti-social Brazilian currently living.  He is an outlier that skews all  data about Brazilians, and serves as a reminder that while culture is real, each person is an individual.

    At least a lifetime of training among small talkers won’t go to waste here.  You see I’m from the South, the region of the US formerly known as the Confederacy.  We do our small talkin’ with more ice tea and fewer “g”s, but we do it and love it.

    At least, we can fake that we love it.  I don’t believe anyone feels genuine excitement over someone’s new, home-made seasonal door swag.  But when the saleswoman at Michaels raves about the gold spray paint she just used on hers, a good southern girl will exclaim on the good fortune, express gratitude for the knowledge by referencing her own failed attempt at a similar project, and ask for suggestions on holiday napkin holder crafts for kids she may or may not actually have.

    Successful small talk requires a lot of energy and even more if you have to do it in a second language and foreign culture.  You need not only correctly conjugated verbs but also content.   Small talk requires knowledge about topics appropriate for discussion i.e. the weather, current events, pop culture, and fluency in non-verbal cues to know when it’s time to change topics or wrap things up.  Pulling all this off in a new country is exhausting and I’m just not inclined to invest this energy in someone I will only be in line with for another five minutes.

    I know this makes me the shy or rude foreigner and that by Brazilian standers my building’s porteiro is hardly a stranger.  Neither is my mother-in-law.  I just think one of the best things about being a happily-married, self-employed adult is that I don’t have to win the approval of strangers, bosses, or periphery acquaintances.  Not unless I’m in the mood.

    I know when the apocalypse comes no one here will be inviting my husband and I onto their boat.  But I have a super cute Brazilian daughter.  I’ll leave it to her to small talk our way on board.

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  • The Super-Awesome, Amazingly-Exotic Expat Life

    The Super-Awesome, Amazingly-Exotic Expat Life

    The daily rainbow in Brazil.
    The daily rainbow in Brazil.

    When I’m back home in Atlanta, I try not to mention that I live in Brazil.  The opportunity presents itself with surprising frequency, usually when a sales associate asks if I’d like to sign up for a rewards card.  I decline saying “I’m just visiting for the holidays.”   Nine times out of ten, at least in the state of Georgia where people still practice things like small talk and friendliness, the person will ask “Oh, where do you live?”  Then I’m stuck.  “In Brazil,” I answer, and I’m at the counter another five minutes as I tell my story and confess that I have not in fact learned to speak Spanish.  Though I have learned the local Portuguese.

    I can’t blame people for their wide-eyed excitement and curiosity about my life.  Americans are under the impression that life south of Texas or north of Idaho or on the other side of an ocean is more…something.  More exciting.  More dangerous.  More romantic.  More barbaric.  More luxurious.  They’ve seen movies set in these “foreign” countries and read articles like “3 Things Dating Foreign Women (And Marrying One) Taught Me” which tell people what a romantic adventure life can be if they only find a spouse with a different passport.

    As someone who did manage to land a coveted foreign spouse and move abroad, I can state that it’s all true.  My life is more exciting than everyone else’s.  It’s more romantic and luxurious yet still a rewarding, character-building challenge.

    Take my very first meal in Brazil.  I got to eat in the food court of the nearby mall.  My future husband took me and it was incredibly romantic.  The din of the other customers drowned out our voices, so we could only stare into each other’s eyes.  Because I arrived in the midst of remodeling the apartment, I had the opportunity to tour all the best hardware stores in Rio de Janeiro.  The thrill of shopping for toilet seats abroad really gets downplayed in expat blogs.  The only thing in Brazil that rivals shopping for toilets is getting finger printed for a visa at the federal police.  The ink smells like jasmine.

    Living in Brazil has also given me the opportunity to learn a new language.  It’s a fact that everything is sexier in a foreign language. Doesn’t matter which language.  They’re all sexier than English.  Here are some of the local Portuguese phrases I learned in my first months here.  Encanador.  Plumber.  Conta corrente conjunta.  Joint checking account.  Seguro de saúde.  Health insurance.  Absorvente interno.  Tampon.

    If you are ever lucky enough to visit Rio, I recommend driving from downtown to the suburbs at 5:30pm.  It will give you an authentic local experience.  Turn the air-conditioning off and roll the windows down to really go native.  Be sure to have the GoPros charged because friends back home will want to watch this trek. All three hours of it.

    Anyone leaving the US should do their family and friends the favor of recording every second of their time abroad.  They’ll thank you for allowing them to live vicariously through you.  After all, life outside the United States is one long perpetual vacation.  Nobody goes to the grocery store or a “job” in foreign countries.  The people serving coconuts on the beach here in Brazil? Robots.  All of them.  Where do you think Walt Disney got the idea for the Hall of Presidents?  He stayed at the Copacabana Palace in Rio.  Actual Brazilian citizens don’t work and if you’re fortunate enough to get residency neither will you.  People who live here just go to the beach and gym everyday.  I haven’t had to run an errand since I arrived in September of 2006.

    Having a child abroad with a foreign spouse (Yes, even in Brazil my Brazilian husband is the foreigner.  I can’t be a foreigner because I’m American), it only adds to the drama and glamor of the expat life.  I’m writing a screenplay based on my experience of visiting the US consulate to prove the maternity of my child.  I’m hoping Ridley Scott will direct and it will star Angelina Jolie (as me), Antonio Banderas (as my husband), and Jack Black as the unwieldy and misunderstood stack of paperwork that ultimately saves the day and gets us the US birth certificate.

    Those of us living in far-off, exotic lands know that “living” abroad is exactly the same thing as “vacationing” abroad.  Don’t make the mistake of thinking that most people in the world are busy going about the tediousness of living day to day, with the jobs and childcare and home repairs and laundry that human existence demands.  No, no.  Life outside the US is romantic and electrifying all the time.  In fact, I have another Brazilian adventure planned for this morning.  I’m going on an excursion for light bulbs.

  • Why I Don’t Want Another Child

    Why I Don’t Want Another Child

    My daughter at 3 years
    My daughter at 3 years

    Yesterday my husband, daughter, and I headed out early for a morning on the beach.  We dug a giant sand pit, built and promptly stomped on sandcastles, and failed to convince my daughter stepping on seaweed is not the absolute worst thing in the world.  We followed this with fish stew and fried bananas on the beach.  In the afternoon, there was a skype call with grandparents, tutus, and puzzles, and a thirty minute tantrum during which my little ballerina spit in my face.

    When I finally crept out of her bedroom at night, I collapsed on the couch thinking “I will never do this again.”

    There it is.  My true feelings about parenthood.  I love my daughter.  I also love myself.  And I cannot spend any more of my one lifetime parenting a small child.

    Despite being born with a uterus, I never dreamed of having children.  In high school through my early twenties, when I imagined my future it never included children.  I pictured travel, politics, law, publishing a book and going on tour, or accepting an appointment as a US ambassador.  Babies never made an appearance.  Then I got married and in my late twenties, I began to think that a child might be nice.  Also, my husband is sixteen years older than I am and given women’s tendency to outlive men, I’d rather not be alone for the last twenty years of my life.

    Wanting a guaranteed companion in old age is a pretty selfish reason to have a child.  But aren’t they all?  I’ve never heard of a couple having a child because the kid asked to be born.  “I’ve always dreamed of a big family.” “We need someone to carry on the family name.”  “I just love babies.”  All selfish reasons.  Yet society reacts with hostility to a person who decides, “Yeah, I had a kid and I really don’t like parenting a baby. I won’t be doing it again.”

    Of course, I’m not just a person deciding I don’t want more children.  I’m a woman declaring I’d rather spend my Sunday afternoons reading as opposed to stringing macaroni necklaces.  I searched for other posts about women with one child by choice, and every mom wrote about her family feeling “complete” with just one.  One child just “feels right.”  Not one mother said, “It was hard.  I struggled.  And I’m not doing it again.”  Well, I’ll say it.  The last three years have been a struggle and I’m not going through it again.

    My daughter was born seven weeks early by emergency c-section after a placental abruption.  She spent 28 days in the NICU.  Her stay would have been shorter but she developed a food allergy at 2 weeks-old which caused loose, bloody stools at every feeding and meant I, the breastfeeding mother, had to begin eliminating things from my diet to isolate the cause.  I eventually removed all dairy, soy, peanuts, nuts, eggs, tomatoes, and berries from my diet but traces of blood and a poopy diaper every two hours continued for 7 months.  I clearly remember sitting at a Mexican restaurant, surrounded by my entire extended family and their plates of cheesy, processed deliciousness, while I ate my skinless chicken breast between two crumbling slices of homecooked, dairy-egg-soy-free bread.  On the plus side, I dropped to under my pre-pregnancy weight in three months.

    Since her homecoming my daughter has rejected the idea of sleeping in her own bed.  Not just her bed.  In her early months, she rejected swings, vibrating chairs, strollers, moving strollers, car seats, swaddling, and every means of soothing except a parent’s arms. And when I say “reject”, I mean she would scream until she couldn’t breathe, and it would take fifteen minutes of rocking to calm her back down.  At 3 and a half, she still doesn’t sleep the whole night in her own bed.  At least now, she will wake up and walk to our room and not just scream waiting for us to come.

    Her separation anxiety is so extreme, I have spent exactly one night away from her since she came home from the hospital.  It happened this January, while we were visiting my parents.  We prepped my daughter for days.  Mommy and Daddy were going away for a couple of days but she would be with Gramma and Grandpa.  There were chicken nuggets, new toys, and Legoland.  My husband and I kissed her goodbye at 6pm.  She cried from 2:30 to 7:30am and was back with us after 20 hours.  It’s been two months and still every story she plays out, with stuffed animals, Legos, or Littlest Pets, involves a lost parent.

    I haven’t even mentioned her tantrums.  And I won’t except that my dad witnessed one and described it to my brother this way: “Whatever you’re imagining, however awful…it was worse.”

    I’m not writing all this to convince anyone of how hard I’ve had it.  My daughter is happy, healthy, and growing.  Despite being a preemie, she is now on the median line for height and weight.  Her teachers send home glowing reports about what an active participant she is and what strides she has made recently with sharing.  When I ask her teachers about the tantrums, they acknowledge her fits are extreme but not abnormally so, and they are occurring less and less often.  It’s clear she will outgrow them.

    My point in listing my greatest parenting challenges (so far) is to say that as tough as these years have been, they could have been worse.  Much worse!  A second child could have health complications or developmental challenges that make my daughter’s early life a three year vacation. My marriage can’t take that.  My sanity can’t take that.  I can’t take the risk!  In the choice between a sane mother and siblings, I think we can universally agree a sane mother is more important for a child’s development.

    In the most private recesses of my mind, I think that I am simply too selfish for a parent.  While pregnant, I thought that hormones would flip some martyr switch that biology had surely hard wired in me.  It didn’t happen.  My dreams, interests, and personality remained mostly unchanged. I would throw myself in front of a bus for my daughter, but I still find coloring and crafting tedious.  I’m making play-dough spaghetti and wishing I could get back to my book.

    I do see a light at the end of tunnel.  I see a turning point, a threshold, an event horizon approaching.  We recently took her out Stand-Up Paddling for the first time.  Fun was had by all.  She’s asking to revisit the sea turtle center, making up stories, and composing songs off of the top of her head.  I’m seeing flashes of a person, one I can’t wait to know and think I’ll have a few things in common with.

    I definitely will not be repeating the past, but I am genuinely excited about the future.

     

    Brilliant blog posts on HonestMum.com

  • The Novelty of Beach Life

    The Novelty of Beach Life

    Baby at the Beach
    Beach Comber From Birth

    Growing up in Atlanta, I got to be part of that great American summer tradition, the annual family beach trip.  Depending on the beach, my brother and I could look forward to between 4 and 6 hours of Wee-Sing-Silly-Songs cassettes, gas station candy, and fierce battles for control of the middle-seat armrest.

    We usually ventured to one of a handful of beaches: Panama City, Florida; Daytona, Florida; St. Simons Island, Georgia; Hilton Head, South Carolina.  Some on the Atlantic and some on the Gulf of Mexico but all had an abundance of cooked white flesh and thick southern accents.  It was paradise!

    I remember the thrill of the first palm tree sighting.  My brother and I would then count the palms in growing anticipation until we finally glimpsed a flash of ocean between a Texaco and a McDonald’s.  After checking into the hotel, we’d spend the next five days coated with sand and sunscreen jumping waves, riding boogie boards, and hunting for seashells.  Often grandparents came along and sometimes aunts, uncles, and cousins.  There was always a family putt-putt outing, which some of us took more seriously than others.  Inevitably, the week ended, and we would say goodbye to the beach for a year.

    I now live three blocks from the beach.

    I can wake up any day of the week and decide to skip writing in favor of paddling around the bay spotting sea turtles.  It. is. amazing!

    My daughter has been going to the beach regularly since before she discovered her hands.  The list of foods my girl will eat is short but includes white fish, salmon, shark, and tiny fried shrimp.  Fried shrimp with the shell and legs still on them.  The girl won’t part her lips for a carrot but she pops little shrimp in her mouth like chocolates.  We frequently have some version of this conversation on Saturday mornings:

    Me: “Should we go to beach today?”

    Husband: “I don’t know.  We went the last few weekends.  I think she might be getting tired of it.”

    Me: “Hey Little Bit, do you want to go to the beach?”

    Kid: “No, I want to stay home and play with my toys.”

    Yes, my daughter will turn down going to the beach in favor of staying home to play with her Littlest Pets because she has no idea how lucky she is and no appreciation for the months of waiting that I had to endure when I was her age to get to the beach.  Preschoolers!

    Because of these different life experiences, my daughter will probably never understand my obsession with ocean-based hobbies, specifically that she master one or several of them.  Some parents dream of their children graduating from the ivy league, I dream of my daughter being a competitive sailor or windsurfer or deep sea fisherwoman.  (That last one is lower down on the list.)

    Given the novelty (for me anyway) of growing up next to the beach, imagine my joy when my girl started swim class and LOVED it!  She has no fear of water, which makes supervising her around the pool more stressful, but is an important first step to becoming a world champion free diver!

    A couple of weeks ago, we embarked on phase two of my master plan.  Stand up paddle boarding in the bay!*  We went as a family and spent the morning spotting green sea turtles in the bay.  It was a success.  You can see in the video below.  My daughter had so much fun, we all went back out yesterday and the heavy grey clouds and constant drizzle didn’t deter her one bit.

    Watching my daughter yesterday on my husband’s board, leaning forward through the rain with a smile on her face, I thought “I just might have a seafarer on my hands.”  At least I hope I do.  All she needs now is a willingness to use sunscreen.

    *If you’re ever in Vitoria, Brazil, I highly recommend a morning of SUP.  We rented our boards from Loop.  They have windsurf and stand up equipment for rent. The bay is filled with sea turtle, fish, and the occasional ray leaping from the water.

    Whatever-the-weather-both-small

  • Lessons For Toddlers and Expats

    Lessons For Toddlers and Expats

    bureaucracyMy 3 year old daughter is currently struggling to accept some of the physical limitations of our three dimensional world.  “That tunnel is not tall enough for the train.”  “It was made for one Littlest Pet not eight.”  “Sweetheart, your teddy bear is never going to fit in that play dough pot.”   She will ignore me, keep trying, and eventually hurl whatever it is against the wall in a frustrated fury. I hope it’s just a phase.

    What is remarkable is her flat out refusal to accept an obvious reality.  She will continue to struggle long after it’s clear that it’s not going to fit.  Her tenacity is impressive.  It’s also the source of many a nighttime tantrum.  While I don’t want her to ever give up easily, I’d like to spare her the frustration and save her the energy spent fighting against a fact about her world.

    As an expat, I should apply this lesson myself.

    I’ve lived in Brazil eight and a half years, and I still struggle to accept some facts about life here.  One thing that still makes my face burn is the out of control and invasive bureaucracy.

    There is no question too personal for a form and no transaction that does not require one.  The eyeglass store wants your social security number.  The hotel wants your profession.  The dentist wants your race.  Your employer wants to know your blood pressure.

    I get around some forms by pretending I’m here temporarily or don’t speak a word of Portuguese, but I couldn’t do this at my former job.

    When I began teaching the school asked me to have a medical exam.  When I came back from maternity leave there was another exam and another a year later for every employee at the school.  When I gave notice at the end of last year, human resources asked me to sign several letters saying that I was leaving of my own accord and have another medical exam.

    I refused.  As American, an employer requiring a medical exam and making note of the fact you use contraceptives is deeply offensive.  I had done the previous exams because I liked the job, and hey when in Rome…but now I was quitting.  What could they do? Fire me?

    There were several meetings with HR during which I nicely refused to accommodate and the HR lady just as nicely said it was mandatory by law.  After checking with a lawyer, I explained sweetly there’s no law requiring a person to submit to a medical exam.  She politely insisted there is.

    Eventually I was told it was the union that required the exam.  And speaking of the union, I had to meet with them and have a rep sign off on my paperwork.  Please come back next Tuesday afternoon.

    I showed up at the union rep’s office in my school and met a man very disgruntled by my lateness.  The meeting was at 2pm.  It was 2:02 pm.  As he grumbled, he grabbed his keys, my work card, and my paperwork. Below is as faithful a transcription of our conversation as my memory allows.

    Me: “Excuse me, are you leaving?”

    Man I Have Only Just Met:  “He’s going to wait for us.”

    Me: “Who?”

    MIHOJM:  “The union Kahuna. (That’s my word because I don’t remember what title the guy really had.)  You were supposed to meet with him at 2pm.”

    Me: “Aren’t you the man I’m meeting?”

    MIHOJM: “No, the Kahuna has to sign off on your papers, and he’s at the union’s headquarters.”

    Me: “Wait. Do we have to drive somewhere?”

    MIHOJM: “Yes. We’re going to the union office.”

    Me: “Stop.  I’m not leaving.  Give me my work card and documents.  I am not going.”

    At that point I had been quitting my job for almost two months.  I was done.  I was out of patience and polite Portuguese.  I unleashed the full force of my direct, low-context American culture on him and I wrapped things up then and there.

    I am not going to the union office.  I am not having the medical exam.  I want to quit today.  You are a union officer?  Do you have authority to sign these papers?  Great.  Please, sign them all now.

    While I did manage to officially quit, within a Brazilian context, I was a complete asshole to a guy who was just doing his job.  He was acting according to standard practice and then comes this woman who freaks out on him, is blunt to the point of being rude, and very angry.

    And I stayed angry.  I complained about the whole process to everyone I met for days.  Hurling my complaints about meaningless bureaucracy against every wall in a frustrated fury.  What did that anger get me?  Well, it used up a lot of my energy, a very precious commodity.  It would have taken a lot less energy to shrug my shoulders.

    Somethings you have to accept.  Don’t waste energy being angry about something you can’t change.   Lessons we expats have to learn.  Expats and toddlers.

  • What Would Jesus Do?

    What Would Jesus Do?

    tumblr_static_makeup_1  Recently I finished unpacking after moving  into my apartment three and a half years ago.  Why the delay?  I simply didn’t care enough to discover where the dessert bowls were.  Caring requires a crucial combination of both time and energy that I haven’t had since my daughter came home from the hospital.

    After a month of being abandoned every night in the NICU, she arrived home with severe separation anxiety. I have not had a full night’s in over three years.  In the initial tortuous months, I was able to care about ten things:

    1. Feed baby.

    2. Clean baby.

    3. Make sure baby sleeps.

    4. Try to sleep while baby does.

    5. Feed myself.

    6. Provide age appropriate stimulation for the baby.

    7. Get dressed and take baby for a walk.

    8. Acknowledge my husband’s presence.

    9. Brush my teeth.

    10. Take a shower.

    For the first seven months, I consistently managed numbers 1 through 8.  Then I went back to work, showering moved up among my priorities, and preparing classes got added to the list.  Unpacking the DVDs, staying up on current events, making intelligent conversation were not things I cared about at all.  Caring takes energy and with so little sleep, my energy became a commodity more precious than clean water in Sao Paulo.  It was awful.  It was also the most liberating experience of my life.

    A nice outfit.  A good hair day.  Makeup.   Staples of my leaving-the-house routine.  I stopped caring about them all.  My routine was reduced to shower, brush teeth, brush hair, use deodorant (I remembered it most days), a comfortable shirt, jeans, and flat shoes.  I had enough energy to be clean, dressed, and present wherever I was required.  Nothing more.

    Then it dawned on me who’s routine I had adopted: my husband’s.

    With my new routine, I was living life like a man.  No makeup. No blowdryers or straighteners or curling irons.  No time spent over earrings, necklaces, and bracelets.  Only flat shoes that make stairs merely good exercise and not treacherous.  Holy crap!!!  This is how men go through the world.  No wonder they still run everything.  They’re wearing shoes that actually allow them to run.

    My husband goes out in the world with visible bags under eyes when he doesn’t sleep and he is still wildly successful with many people who want to work with him.  He doesn’t dye his hair and he still has friends.  He regularly puts his t-shirts on backwards and his family still loves him.

    Why the hell can’t I have it so easy?

    Turns out I can.  It was during this time when I regularly forgot to brush my teeth until after lunch, that I met and made my three best friends in Vitoria.  I had great relationships with my boss and colleagues and earned more responsibility at work.  My husband didn’t leave me when I kept my hair in a ponytail for three months straight.  My new friends didn’t stop calling when I went six months without putting in a pair of earrings.  My fellow teachers didn’t ignore me because I recycled the same five tops every week.

    I hope with all of my heart that I can teach these lessons to my daughter.  If she is honest, respectful, hard working, and fair, she will be successful personally and professionally.  That’s all she needs. High school might be a bitch, but her life will be a success.

    I believe the best way I can teach her these lessons is to apply them to myself.  Now when staring in the bathroom mirror, I ask myself a question I haven’t since trying to fit in at my public high school in Georgia.  What would Jesus do?

    As a man, would Jesus arrive five minutes late because he had to pluck his eyebrows?  Would Jesus wear the super cute shoes even though they’ll give him a blister on the walk to daycare?  Would Jesus wear eyeliner to a pool party?

    I wish I could say I’ve been hardcore enough to ask if Jesus would shave his pits but I haven’t and don’t plan to.  I admit I apply my new philosophy somewhat selectively.  I guess I’m not perfect.  But I don’t have the energy to care.

     

    flower

     

  • Unpacking Home Number Fifteen

    Unpacking Home Number Fifteen

    moving-day-boxesOver the course of my 32 years, I have called 15 different buildings “home”.  I define home as the place with most of my clothes, books, and charger cords.  This averages out to a new home every 2.13 years.

    I’ve been thinking about my different homes because I’ve just finished moving into number fifteen!  I unpacked the last suitcases being used as storage and put up a shoe rack in closet.  I took a week and organized every drawer, every closet, every shelf in my apartment.  My bathroom cabinets are a wonder and joy to behold.  After three and a half years here, I am FINALLY moved into my home.

    Three and a half years.  The moving-in process here has taken more time than my entire existence in some previous homes.  I blame my baby.  Really, it was her fault.  She came seven weeks early on the same day we moved into our newly purchased apartment.  The movers left at 5pm and I was having an emergency C-section three hours later.

    Because my husband and I were going to the NICU all day everyday for almost a month, my entire apartment was unpacked by my mother-in-law and our cleaning lady.  Of course, I will never forget the this great act of kindness on behalf of my mother-in-law.  But no one is going to organize your space and your things the same way you would.  I, for one, don’t organize my books by height and color.

    And this is why I am absolutely giddy.  After years of thinking things lost and rediscovering stuff I didn’t remember having in the first place, I have taken back control of my space and my stuff and woe be unto the person who puts the colander back in the wrong drawer.  I threw out every deviceless cable, every broken handled cheese grater, and every expired bottle of cough syrup. My week of obsessive organizing went so deep, I got pictures framed that have been buried in closets since 2002.

    Such a deep cleaning brings up a lot of questions.  Why would reasonable people with enough money keep a broken-handled cheese grater?  Who was I when I bought the jean miniskirt with frayed edges?  How does a person acquire so much lotion?

    But I’m not going to dwell on questions without answers.  Not when I can bask in the glory of knowing where every single thing in my apartment is currently located.  Every. Single. Thing.  I’m dying to make a game out of it.  I want to roll my desk chair to middle of the den, sit with my eyes closed, and have my husband call out random items.

    “Coffee filters?”

    “Cabinet directly beneath the coffee pot, top shelf.”

    “Rechargeable double AA batteries?”

    “TV stand in the playroom, in the right-side drawer, on the left.”

    “The cuff links a student gave me which I’ll never wear but haven’t thrown/given away.”

    “Your night stand, top drawer.”

    This is the closest to omniscient I will ever be. And it feels amazing.  Totally worth the wait.

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