Tag: expats

  • Brazil: Children Allowed

    Brazil: Children Allowed

    Brazil! Where children are always welcome!
    Brazil! Where children are always welcome!

    As an American, I know that taking a child to any restaurant that doesn’t have it’s menu posted on a wall and ordering her juice while she plays on your phone will get you nasty looks at the least and reported to child services at worst.  The US can be a harsh culture in which to go about the day to day activities of parenting.  I didn’t know how harsh until I moved to Brazil, and my eyes were opened.

    Brazilians are gaga for children!

    Women and men, old and young, Brazilians adore kids.  Brazil makes the US seem like one giant lawn its crotchety citizens don’t want children stepping on.

    I first noticed this difference during a staff lunch at a chic restaurant in Rio. My boss brought her newborn to this very crowded restaurant at peak lunch hour.  Exactly one table was available and it was on the opposite of the restaurant.  There was a sea of people in expensive clothes and tables covered in glassware between us and that table.  When my boss indicated to the staff that we would be claiming that table, I cringed.  My stomach clenched at the idea of getting through this fancy crowd with a baby and stroller.

    That’s the appropriate response, right?  Obviously, a parent should feel ill at the thought of briefly disturbing other people’s lunches on the way to her own table.  Ha. How American of me.  Two waiters swooped in, all smiles, lifted the stroller up over their heads, and carried that baby like royalty across the entire dining room.  Not a single dirty look.

    Brazilians have this bizarre assumption that babies and children are a staple part of everyday life.  If there are people around, there will be young people and these young people will cry, complain, spill things, talk too loudly, and generally not behave like adults.  That’s life.  How else is it supposed to continue?

    People here also acknowledge kids.  They talk to them and include kids as if they were a part of society.  Strangers smile and say hello to my daughter on our walks to school.  Waiters greet her at restaurants.  When she cries in public, people stop and ask her what’s wrong. During a melt down, I’m not worried the stranger approaching is about to helpfully inform me my child is being disruptive or offer some  judgement in the form of unsolicited advice.  That stranger approaching doesn’t want to talk to me at all.  She’s going to console my daughter.

    At playgrounds, parents help each others’ kids on and off equipment.  They freely offer snacks they’ve brought to every child in earshot.  They let other kids run off with their own child’s toy confident it will be returned. Playgrounds in Brazil initially felt to me like loud, sandy communist communes.  It was a long time before I stopped apologizing profusely every time my daughter touched another kid’s toy and fearing the wrath of another parent because I offered her child gluten.

    If you do bring your baby to Brazil, be prepared. Brazilians love children, and Brazilians are touchy people.  I mean literally touchy.  They touch other people a lot.  A random passersby will want to touch, stroke, kiss, and even hold your baby.  One of my daughter’s nurses at the NICU here in Vitoria admitted this was a particular blind spot for Brazilians.  Knowledge of germ theory cannot curb their enthusiasm for babies. I dealt with it by reminding myself I’d rather have a request to hold my baby than a request to remove it from the premises.

    This habit of baby fawning is not limited to any age, gender, or class.  A trainer at my gym once brought his newborn into the weight room and a half dozen of the burliest men were reduced to cooing and clucking incoherently.  The school where I taught had preschool through high school, and everyday as the toddlers left the nap room, a crowd of teenagers gathered to squeal and exclaim over the adorably rumpled munchkins.

    And of course there are the old ladies.  Women over the age 70 must develop a sixth sense to detect babies.  I’d be sitting at the cafe, waving a rattle in my daughter’s face, and suddenly an 85 year old woman materialized out of thin air to stroke my daughter’s hair and to tell me my baby is cold.

    This is the one sin a parent cannot commit in Brazil.  You can leave the TV on 24 hours day.  You can feed your kid white rice and french fries at every lunch.  But do NOT let your baby get cold!!!  If there is a breeze and your baby is not covered with a blanket, every person will stop and tell you your baby is cold.  Every. Single. Person.  As someone who does not think 65 F requires gloves at any age, I heard it pretty much everyday of my child’s infancy.

    The love for and acceptance of children as part of daily life are two of the things I love best about Brazil, and for now, I’m perfectly content to raise my tantrum prone daughter here so as not to disturb my fellow Americans’ lattes.

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  • The Perks of Not Speaking the Language

    The Perks of Not Speaking the Language

    Or don't...depending on the situation.
    Or don’t…depending on the situation.

    I have a secret to confess.  I speak Portuguese.  Please, don’t tell my mother-in-law.

    I don’t speak Portuguese fluently. Nothing as impressive as that. I speak Portuguese like a 96-year-old suffering from extreme dementia.  My sentences are punctuated by gestures and facial expression to stand-in for words I’ve forgotten, and my responses to questions sometimes have nothing to do with what was actually asked.

    “Brynn, what did you do this weekend?”

    “No, I don’t like mangoes.”

    But more often than not, I can successfully converse, arrange appointments, and get the hair cut and color I actually want. (The correct hair color was something I mistakenly thought I could get after only recently arriving in Brazil with minimal Portuguese.)

    While life is greatly improved now that I don’t consistently confuse Monday and Tuesday, there are times when I play the clueless foreigner card without hesitation.  I should probably feel bad for perpetuating the ignorant, monolingual American stereotype, but it’s such an effective way to avoid all those tedious conversations that suck up patience and sanity: the chatty person with what sounds like TB at the doctor’s office, the perfume-drenched, close-talking lady from upstairs, all phone solicitors.

    I always answer my phone with a thick, American, “Hello.”  It’s the perfect screen.  Family and friends obviously know where I’m from and aren’t thrown by it.  Only salespeople freeze up and give themselves away with a long pause as they try to figure out what to do next.  Some hang up.  Some ask if they can speak to my husband.  Others plow doggedly ahead with their scripts.  I cut them all off and say sweetly in English, “Oh, I’m sorry. I don’t speak Portuguese. Goodbye.” Click.  Conversation over.  The salesperson doesn’t feel bad about losing someone they couldn’t talk to.  I’m back to watching John Oliver on YouTube. Win-win.

    I first employed this trick in Morocco.  Describing the young men in Morocco as persistent is like calling the Kardashians’ lifestyle “comfortable.”  Tired of being unable to walk two blocks without being asked to dinner and then asked why I was refusing, I answered one man with Croatian song lyrics.  Why Croatian? Because in almost every country other than the US, even misogynist assholes can speak more than one language.  But with only four million Croatians in the world, I was pretty confident Croatian would not be one of his languages.  I was right.  The guy stopped talking to me after a couple sentences.  He did still follow me all the way back to my hotel, but stalking is way less annoying when done in silence.

    Playing dumb also helps avoid awkward conversations with in-laws and before you judge, just imagine Thanksgiving with your in-laws.  What if you could avoid awkward conversations about politics or global-warming or when your daughter is getting baptized by simply fumbling the language? “Oh, what? When is she getting her booster shots? Next month.”  Wouldn’t everyone be happier if there was just a lot of smiling and complementing of the food?

    So before you get annoyed with the woman in the elevator for not speaking your language, check if you’re wearing deodorant, have brushed your teeth recently, and are saying something more interesting than the silence.  Then be careful what you mumble out loud.  There’s a chance she’s faking it.

     

    Find more fun adventures from life abroad!

    Expat Life with a Double Buggy

     

  • The Super-Awesome, Amazingly-Exotic Expat Life

    The Super-Awesome, Amazingly-Exotic Expat Life

    The daily rainbow in Brazil.
    The daily rainbow in Brazil.

    When I’m back home in Atlanta, I try not to mention that I live in Brazil.  The opportunity presents itself with surprising frequency, usually when a sales associate asks if I’d like to sign up for a rewards card.  I decline saying “I’m just visiting for the holidays.”   Nine times out of ten, at least in the state of Georgia where people still practice things like small talk and friendliness, the person will ask “Oh, where do you live?”  Then I’m stuck.  “In Brazil,” I answer, and I’m at the counter another five minutes as I tell my story and confess that I have not in fact learned to speak Spanish.  Though I have learned the local Portuguese.

    I can’t blame people for their wide-eyed excitement and curiosity about my life.  Americans are under the impression that life south of Texas or north of Idaho or on the other side of an ocean is more…something.  More exciting.  More dangerous.  More romantic.  More barbaric.  More luxurious.  They’ve seen movies set in these “foreign” countries and read articles like “3 Things Dating Foreign Women (And Marrying One) Taught Me” which tell people what a romantic adventure life can be if they only find a spouse with a different passport.

    As someone who did manage to land a coveted foreign spouse and move abroad, I can state that it’s all true.  My life is more exciting than everyone else’s.  It’s more romantic and luxurious yet still a rewarding, character-building challenge.

    Take my very first meal in Brazil.  I got to eat in the food court of the nearby mall.  My future husband took me and it was incredibly romantic.  The din of the other customers drowned out our voices, so we could only stare into each other’s eyes.  Because I arrived in the midst of remodeling the apartment, I had the opportunity to tour all the best hardware stores in Rio de Janeiro.  The thrill of shopping for toilet seats abroad really gets downplayed in expat blogs.  The only thing in Brazil that rivals shopping for toilets is getting finger printed for a visa at the federal police.  The ink smells like jasmine.

    Living in Brazil has also given me the opportunity to learn a new language.  It’s a fact that everything is sexier in a foreign language. Doesn’t matter which language.  They’re all sexier than English.  Here are some of the local Portuguese phrases I learned in my first months here.  Encanador.  Plumber.  Conta corrente conjunta.  Joint checking account.  Seguro de saúde.  Health insurance.  Absorvente interno.  Tampon.

    If you are ever lucky enough to visit Rio, I recommend driving from downtown to the suburbs at 5:30pm.  It will give you an authentic local experience.  Turn the air-conditioning off and roll the windows down to really go native.  Be sure to have the GoPros charged because friends back home will want to watch this trek. All three hours of it.

    Anyone leaving the US should do their family and friends the favor of recording every second of their time abroad.  They’ll thank you for allowing them to live vicariously through you.  After all, life outside the United States is one long perpetual vacation.  Nobody goes to the grocery store or a “job” in foreign countries.  The people serving coconuts on the beach here in Brazil? Robots.  All of them.  Where do you think Walt Disney got the idea for the Hall of Presidents?  He stayed at the Copacabana Palace in Rio.  Actual Brazilian citizens don’t work and if you’re fortunate enough to get residency neither will you.  People who live here just go to the beach and gym everyday.  I haven’t had to run an errand since I arrived in September of 2006.

    Having a child abroad with a foreign spouse (Yes, even in Brazil my Brazilian husband is the foreigner.  I can’t be a foreigner because I’m American), it only adds to the drama and glamor of the expat life.  I’m writing a screenplay based on my experience of visiting the US consulate to prove the maternity of my child.  I’m hoping Ridley Scott will direct and it will star Angelina Jolie (as me), Antonio Banderas (as my husband), and Jack Black as the unwieldy and misunderstood stack of paperwork that ultimately saves the day and gets us the US birth certificate.

    Those of us living in far-off, exotic lands know that “living” abroad is exactly the same thing as “vacationing” abroad.  Don’t make the mistake of thinking that most people in the world are busy going about the tediousness of living day to day, with the jobs and childcare and home repairs and laundry that human existence demands.  No, no.  Life outside the US is romantic and electrifying all the time.  In fact, I have another Brazilian adventure planned for this morning.  I’m going on an excursion for light bulbs.

  • The Novelty of Beach Life

    The Novelty of Beach Life

    Baby at the Beach
    Beach Comber From Birth

    Growing up in Atlanta, I got to be part of that great American summer tradition, the annual family beach trip.  Depending on the beach, my brother and I could look forward to between 4 and 6 hours of Wee-Sing-Silly-Songs cassettes, gas station candy, and fierce battles for control of the middle-seat armrest.

    We usually ventured to one of a handful of beaches: Panama City, Florida; Daytona, Florida; St. Simons Island, Georgia; Hilton Head, South Carolina.  Some on the Atlantic and some on the Gulf of Mexico but all had an abundance of cooked white flesh and thick southern accents.  It was paradise!

    I remember the thrill of the first palm tree sighting.  My brother and I would then count the palms in growing anticipation until we finally glimpsed a flash of ocean between a Texaco and a McDonald’s.  After checking into the hotel, we’d spend the next five days coated with sand and sunscreen jumping waves, riding boogie boards, and hunting for seashells.  Often grandparents came along and sometimes aunts, uncles, and cousins.  There was always a family putt-putt outing, which some of us took more seriously than others.  Inevitably, the week ended, and we would say goodbye to the beach for a year.

    I now live three blocks from the beach.

    I can wake up any day of the week and decide to skip writing in favor of paddling around the bay spotting sea turtles.  It. is. amazing!

    My daughter has been going to the beach regularly since before she discovered her hands.  The list of foods my girl will eat is short but includes white fish, salmon, shark, and tiny fried shrimp.  Fried shrimp with the shell and legs still on them.  The girl won’t part her lips for a carrot but she pops little shrimp in her mouth like chocolates.  We frequently have some version of this conversation on Saturday mornings:

    Me: “Should we go to beach today?”

    Husband: “I don’t know.  We went the last few weekends.  I think she might be getting tired of it.”

    Me: “Hey Little Bit, do you want to go to the beach?”

    Kid: “No, I want to stay home and play with my toys.”

    Yes, my daughter will turn down going to the beach in favor of staying home to play with her Littlest Pets because she has no idea how lucky she is and no appreciation for the months of waiting that I had to endure when I was her age to get to the beach.  Preschoolers!

    Because of these different life experiences, my daughter will probably never understand my obsession with ocean-based hobbies, specifically that she master one or several of them.  Some parents dream of their children graduating from the ivy league, I dream of my daughter being a competitive sailor or windsurfer or deep sea fisherwoman.  (That last one is lower down on the list.)

    Given the novelty (for me anyway) of growing up next to the beach, imagine my joy when my girl started swim class and LOVED it!  She has no fear of water, which makes supervising her around the pool more stressful, but is an important first step to becoming a world champion free diver!

    A couple of weeks ago, we embarked on phase two of my master plan.  Stand up paddle boarding in the bay!*  We went as a family and spent the morning spotting green sea turtles in the bay.  It was a success.  You can see in the video below.  My daughter had so much fun, we all went back out yesterday and the heavy grey clouds and constant drizzle didn’t deter her one bit.

    Watching my daughter yesterday on my husband’s board, leaning forward through the rain with a smile on her face, I thought “I just might have a seafarer on my hands.”  At least I hope I do.  All she needs now is a willingness to use sunscreen.

    *If you’re ever in Vitoria, Brazil, I highly recommend a morning of SUP.  We rented our boards from Loop.  They have windsurf and stand up equipment for rent. The bay is filled with sea turtle, fish, and the occasional ray leaping from the water.

    Whatever-the-weather-both-small

  • Lessons For Toddlers and Expats

    Lessons For Toddlers and Expats

    bureaucracyMy 3 year old daughter is currently struggling to accept some of the physical limitations of our three dimensional world.  “That tunnel is not tall enough for the train.”  “It was made for one Littlest Pet not eight.”  “Sweetheart, your teddy bear is never going to fit in that play dough pot.”   She will ignore me, keep trying, and eventually hurl whatever it is against the wall in a frustrated fury. I hope it’s just a phase.

    What is remarkable is her flat out refusal to accept an obvious reality.  She will continue to struggle long after it’s clear that it’s not going to fit.  Her tenacity is impressive.  It’s also the source of many a nighttime tantrum.  While I don’t want her to ever give up easily, I’d like to spare her the frustration and save her the energy spent fighting against a fact about her world.

    As an expat, I should apply this lesson myself.

    I’ve lived in Brazil eight and a half years, and I still struggle to accept some facts about life here.  One thing that still makes my face burn is the out of control and invasive bureaucracy.

    There is no question too personal for a form and no transaction that does not require one.  The eyeglass store wants your social security number.  The hotel wants your profession.  The dentist wants your race.  Your employer wants to know your blood pressure.

    I get around some forms by pretending I’m here temporarily or don’t speak a word of Portuguese, but I couldn’t do this at my former job.

    When I began teaching the school asked me to have a medical exam.  When I came back from maternity leave there was another exam and another a year later for every employee at the school.  When I gave notice at the end of last year, human resources asked me to sign several letters saying that I was leaving of my own accord and have another medical exam.

    I refused.  As American, an employer requiring a medical exam and making note of the fact you use contraceptives is deeply offensive.  I had done the previous exams because I liked the job, and hey when in Rome…but now I was quitting.  What could they do? Fire me?

    There were several meetings with HR during which I nicely refused to accommodate and the HR lady just as nicely said it was mandatory by law.  After checking with a lawyer, I explained sweetly there’s no law requiring a person to submit to a medical exam.  She politely insisted there is.

    Eventually I was told it was the union that required the exam.  And speaking of the union, I had to meet with them and have a rep sign off on my paperwork.  Please come back next Tuesday afternoon.

    I showed up at the union rep’s office in my school and met a man very disgruntled by my lateness.  The meeting was at 2pm.  It was 2:02 pm.  As he grumbled, he grabbed his keys, my work card, and my paperwork. Below is as faithful a transcription of our conversation as my memory allows.

    Me: “Excuse me, are you leaving?”

    Man I Have Only Just Met:  “He’s going to wait for us.”

    Me: “Who?”

    MIHOJM:  “The union Kahuna. (That’s my word because I don’t remember what title the guy really had.)  You were supposed to meet with him at 2pm.”

    Me: “Aren’t you the man I’m meeting?”

    MIHOJM: “No, the Kahuna has to sign off on your papers, and he’s at the union’s headquarters.”

    Me: “Wait. Do we have to drive somewhere?”

    MIHOJM: “Yes. We’re going to the union office.”

    Me: “Stop.  I’m not leaving.  Give me my work card and documents.  I am not going.”

    At that point I had been quitting my job for almost two months.  I was done.  I was out of patience and polite Portuguese.  I unleashed the full force of my direct, low-context American culture on him and I wrapped things up then and there.

    I am not going to the union office.  I am not having the medical exam.  I want to quit today.  You are a union officer?  Do you have authority to sign these papers?  Great.  Please, sign them all now.

    While I did manage to officially quit, within a Brazilian context, I was a complete asshole to a guy who was just doing his job.  He was acting according to standard practice and then comes this woman who freaks out on him, is blunt to the point of being rude, and very angry.

    And I stayed angry.  I complained about the whole process to everyone I met for days.  Hurling my complaints about meaningless bureaucracy against every wall in a frustrated fury.  What did that anger get me?  Well, it used up a lot of my energy, a very precious commodity.  It would have taken a lot less energy to shrug my shoulders.

    Somethings you have to accept.  Don’t waste energy being angry about something you can’t change.   Lessons we expats have to learn.  Expats and toddlers.

  • Unpacking Home Number Fifteen

    Unpacking Home Number Fifteen

    moving-day-boxesOver the course of my 32 years, I have called 15 different buildings “home”.  I define home as the place with most of my clothes, books, and charger cords.  This averages out to a new home every 2.13 years.

    I’ve been thinking about my different homes because I’ve just finished moving into number fifteen!  I unpacked the last suitcases being used as storage and put up a shoe rack in closet.  I took a week and organized every drawer, every closet, every shelf in my apartment.  My bathroom cabinets are a wonder and joy to behold.  After three and a half years here, I am FINALLY moved into my home.

    Three and a half years.  The moving-in process here has taken more time than my entire existence in some previous homes.  I blame my baby.  Really, it was her fault.  She came seven weeks early on the same day we moved into our newly purchased apartment.  The movers left at 5pm and I was having an emergency C-section three hours later.

    Because my husband and I were going to the NICU all day everyday for almost a month, my entire apartment was unpacked by my mother-in-law and our cleaning lady.  Of course, I will never forget the this great act of kindness on behalf of my mother-in-law.  But no one is going to organize your space and your things the same way you would.  I, for one, don’t organize my books by height and color.

    And this is why I am absolutely giddy.  After years of thinking things lost and rediscovering stuff I didn’t remember having in the first place, I have taken back control of my space and my stuff and woe be unto the person who puts the colander back in the wrong drawer.  I threw out every deviceless cable, every broken handled cheese grater, and every expired bottle of cough syrup. My week of obsessive organizing went so deep, I got pictures framed that have been buried in closets since 2002.

    Such a deep cleaning brings up a lot of questions.  Why would reasonable people with enough money keep a broken-handled cheese grater?  Who was I when I bought the jean miniskirt with frayed edges?  How does a person acquire so much lotion?

    But I’m not going to dwell on questions without answers.  Not when I can bask in the glory of knowing where every single thing in my apartment is currently located.  Every. Single. Thing.  I’m dying to make a game out of it.  I want to roll my desk chair to middle of the den, sit with my eyes closed, and have my husband call out random items.

    “Coffee filters?”

    “Cabinet directly beneath the coffee pot, top shelf.”

    “Rechargeable double AA batteries?”

    “TV stand in the playroom, in the right-side drawer, on the left.”

    “The cuff links a student gave me which I’ll never wear but haven’t thrown/given away.”

    “Your night stand, top drawer.”

    This is the closest to omniscient I will ever be. And it feels amazing.  Totally worth the wait.

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  • Teaching Teachers Day 1

    Today was my very first day of teacher training as well as my first day of totally on the books employment in Brazil. It was also the first time I’ve had to be in a classroom at 8am since undergrad. (Yup, it still sucks.) 

    Thankfully, Brazilians are generous with the coffee and the snacks. The caffeine was needed because it was a full day of sitting and watching mock classes on American Literature. Remember American Literature? Probably not because you didn’t have Brazilian coffee to get through class.

    I left at 5pm with Ben Franklin’s aphorisms in my head and a song in my heart. I’m so excited to have a regular job working with some brilliant expats and Brazilians. (Will I make my first real Brazilian friend? Only time will tell.) Here are some of the lessons I took away from the first day.

    – Puritan writing is awesome, particularly “Sinners in the Hand of an Angry God” which I will be teaching to my future children at an early age but replacing God with Mommy.

    – Benjamin Franklin, the genius behind “A penny saved is a penny earned,” also invented the lightning rod which patriotic Americans hung flags on. The rod came before the flag.

    – If you want to laugh a lot gather a group of teachers. I’m pretty sure a sense of humor is the only thing keeping them sane.

    – I’m not a transcendentalist.

    – Every piece of literature taught in high school was originally written for adults. What would Poe think about his work being taught to 15 year-olds? And why didn’t I realize this while in the class as a student?

  • Expat Masochists

    Expat Masochists

    The word “expatriate” derives from the Medieval Latin expatriatus, which means to have left one’s own country. It was and, according to Webster’s, still is a synonym of banished.

    If you google the word expatriate you can find literally millions of proud expatriates. Personally, I wonder about a group of people so happy about banishment they ask for it and promote it via themed cookbooks. It just proves what I’ve always known. We expats have some masochistic tendencies.

    Ok, not all us. There are lots of expats who didn’t have a choice. I’m talking about those of us who volunteered for banishment. We applied for the job, or requested the assignment, or married the handsome foreigner. Knowing full well we’d be giving up unappreciated comforts like being able to count change by touch and recognizing the people featured on it. Many of us even gave up our voice by moving into a language we can’t speak.

    We tell people the rewards of the new job/marriage/opportunity-for-world-improvement will more than outweigh the costs of self-imposed banishment but the mere fact that we have a price at which we are willing to leave our home sets us apart from, I believe, the vast majority of people in the world.

    There are literally millions of people who would rather live in a tent for decades than give up their home and rebuild somewhere else. Certainly, relocating across the world requires resources many people don’t have but war torn and failing states are populated by successful professionals (I’m thinking of several personal friends here) who could find jobs in countries without an inflation rate over 1,000%. But they stay. Why? Because they are home. They will not give up their family, their culture, their home for any price.

    Whereas many expats look at the really lustrous hair this man could pass to his offspring (or the higher salary, whatever motivates you), weigh it against living in a country with street signs in a different alphabet, and our response is “Sign me up!” I’m willing to bet if polled, the general consensus of the world would be that we are some crazy mofos.

    And I think they’d be right. We’re not certifiable but part of us definitely wanted the hardship. We revel in the fact that our daily lives would reduce lesser people (or ourselves if we haven’t gotten enough sleep) to tears and pleasure in our own pain is the definition of masochism.

    Fortunately, it’s a growing pain. We know it won’t last forever and surviving it, building a life like the one we left behind, makes us worthier people. Worthy of what? Well, I’d accept revered silence whenever I speak during holiday meals with my family.

    After all, why did we struggle to build a life in a different culture if not to become wiser, more open-minded people with all the best stories? All the struggling had to be for something. I mean, I’m not a masochist.

  • Expat Milestones: First Job Interview

    Expat Milestones: First Job Interview

    I’m bragging a little today. You see, in the life of an expat there are some standard milestones. At least standard for an English speaking expat who moves to a non-English speaking country with no previous knowledge of the language. For example…

    -There’s the first time you order a pizza over the phone in your new language.

    -The first time you notice and can yell at the taxi driver for taking you on the longer “tourist” route.

    -The first time you understand enough to genuinely enjoy a film in your second language.

    Last week I hit a new one: first successful job interview in your second language.

    On Wednesday, I received the official offer to teach here in Vitoria. I had been waiting to hear back and a particularly frustrating night of Portuguese had given me a sinking feeling that I had blown the interview.

    I didn’t know going into the interview that it would be in Portuguese. I had already been through one interview with the high school coordinator. We spoke in English. All emails had been in English. I was applying to teach in English. I was reasonably expecting more English.

    When I walked in for the second interview with the principal, as we exchanged greetings the high school coordinator said, “Vamos falar em português, tá bom?” We’re going to speak in Portuguese, ok?

    Had I known the interview would be in Portuguese, I might have abandoned the entire project. I do not have very good Portuguese. It’s not false modesty. It’s speaking only English at home and having only American friends in Rio. The Portuguese I have acquired has been in spite of a pathological fear of sounding like an idiot, so the announcement that I would be interviewed by the principal in Portuguese caused a shot of adrenaline urging me to flee out the door.

    As I sat down in front of her desk, I told myself, “Just keep talking. If you start thinking too hard you’ll realize all the mistakes you’re making. Then you’ll feel embarrassed, followed by panic, and you’ll end up either tongue-tied or crying.”

    So I smiled, kept my arms at my sides to hide the giant sweat stains appearing, and I kept talking. At the end of the interview the principal complemented my fluency.

    Now, I’m the newest teacher at my school and I have to say I’m pretty proud of myself. Not only did I interview in Portuguese but I got the job without any help. I researched and found the school on my own. I sent an email asking if there were opportunities for someone with my background. I sent my resume and had two interviews. I didn’t use my husband’s contacts or drop a single name. I got the job entirely on my own.

    The only downside is that I just found out American expats still have to pay US taxes. Damn.